On 4th October 2024, British-Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai “Nims” Purja made history once again by setting three new world records, standing on the summit of Shishapangma alongside renowned Nepali climber Mingma G and his rope-fixing team. Both climbers completed the remarkable feat of summiting all 14 of the world’s highest peaks without supplementary oxygen, a mountaineering challenge few have accomplished.
Fastest to Complete the 14 Peaks Without Oxygen
Nimsdai Purja has become the fastest person to climb all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres without using supplementary oxygen. This incredible achievement took 2 years, 4 months, and 28 days. Not only did Nims accomplish this feat, but he also led and guided clients along the way, further showcasing his unparalleled strength and leadership in the mountaineering world.
He now holds the unique distinction of being the fastest and only person to summit all 14 peaks both with and without supplementary oxygen, a record completed in just 5 years, 5 months, and 12 days (from 23rd April 2019 to 4th October 2024).
Celebrating a 50th Summit Milestone
After his initial summit of Shishapangma on October 4th, Nimsdai returned to the mountain for a second ascent on October 9th, marking his 50th summit of an 8,000m peak, a new mountaineering milestone. This accomplishment was dedicated to the UK, Nepal, the Gurkhas, and the UK Special Forces (UKSF), highlighting his deep ties to both his homeland and his military background.
Joining him on the summit was Tejan Gurung (TJ), a former British Commando, who completed his own 14 Peaks journey in 2 years, 4 months, and 13 days, becoming the youngest British male to accomplish this at just 29 years old.
A Tribute to Lost Friends and Family
In a poignant dedication, Nimsdai Purja honoured his 14 Peaks No O2 records to his family, as well as to Anna Gutu and Mingmar Sherpa, two climbers tragically lost in avalanches on Shishapangma in 2023. Nims, together with his team at Elite Exped, played a crucial role in the rescue and repatriation of Anna and Mingmar, ensuring they were reunited with their families in Spring 2024.
Nims shared: “I know Anna would have told me to come back and finish the mountain we started together, to show the world resilience and determination. These new world records are dedicated to her, to Mingmar, and to my dear mum and dad, who sadly passed away after 2019.”
He continued: Thank you to everyone who has supported me on this journey since 2019. Your love and support mean the world to me, you are all a part of these summits and successes.”
A Legacy of Inspiration
Nimsdai’s mission has always extended beyond personal achievement. Through his remarkable accomplishments, he aims to inspire people worldwide to believe in their dreams and to push beyond their limits to achieve what he calls the “new possible.” His dedication to raising awareness of the Big Mountain communities and his efforts to elevate the profile of Nepalese climbers have cemented his place as a legendary figure in the world of mountaineering.
